Looming high above Subiaco is one of the western suburb’s newest fine diners, Storehouse. Stepping out of the lift, on the 9th floor of the Vibe Hotel, we are greeted by a stunner of a view. The dining room enjoys north-west views, which lends well to an intimate sunset dinner. If you’re lucky to snag a table on the east side, you’ll enjoy a 180-degree view also encompassing the city skyline.
The chic Interior of the rooftop restaurant has luxurious splashes of white marble and gold. Storehouse is popular for business lunches, as well as the “ladies who lunch” set. We sit on plush rose gold-coloured couches, admiring the view, while perusing the concise menu.
This is a share menu, but not as we know it – not a croquette, slider or bowl of chips in sight. Five small and five large plates, plus a few robust sides for good measure, are component heavy and very interesting eats.
Executive Chef Marc Eskdale, has previously banged the pans in Michelin starred kitchens around the UK and France, as well as quality Perth spots like the Treasury’s Petition and the ever-popular Flour Factory.
From the get-go, service is friendly, and attentive. Cocktails are popular here. Storehouse offers a limited, but decent wine list of mainly West Australian drops. A crisp Amelia Park Semillon Sauvignon Blanc is a perfect pair with seafood, with tropical and citrus hints.
Small plates arrive swiftly from the kitchen and are pretty as a picture. The saying, “You eat with your eyes first,” certainly rings true at Storehouse. Bite sized chunks of Fremantle octopus ($25), are pickled, giving it just the right amount of chew. This tasty dish is beautifully plated with chorizo, radish, fennel, jewels of pomegranate, and a little saffron aioli.
Cured ocean trout ($24) has seamlessly balanced flavours of creamy avocado, a yuzu mayo, pickled beetroot, spring onion oil and surprising pops of trout caviar – which all elevate my palate. The soft texture of this delicious dish lends well to smothering on a crusty slice of bread. I’d like to see the trout served with more dehydrated fish skin crisps, or have the waitstaff suggest that it goes hand in hand with a side of bread, to mop up all that spring onion oil too.
The pork shoulder ($39) is slow cooked, then roasted with punchy Asian flavours of char sui and sesame. The meat, garnished with deep fried pork crackle, has a more-ish depth of flavour. Though the glazed pork is a tad dry, it’s complemented with earthy shitake mushrooms, and clean, sweet notes of Lebanese cucumber, and a carrot and ginger puree.
A slab of 24 hour slow cooked Margaret River beef cheek ($39) is served upon a potato mash, with slightly charred brussel sprouts. Dijon mustard and a rich beef jus compliment the moist, fudgy meat perfectly.
Service is on the ball, but not intrusive. No less than four waitstaff visit our table, frequently checking if everything is to our satisfaction, topping up glasses and all of our dishes arrive in a timely fashion.
Dessert doesn’t disappoint. A light frangipane cake ($16), plays on sweet and sour rhubarb flavours, and is served with vanilla bean ice cream and caramelised white chocolate crumb.
A waitress directs me to “tap three times” with a spoon on a chocolate dome ($18). Admittedly, it takes a good deal more cracks than that to break through the thick chocolate. I’m rewarded with a rich, silky-smooth mousse-like whipped chocolate centre inside. Vanilla ice cream, pistachio crumb and a sweet raspberry gel make this delightful dessert both fresh and indulgent.
While not cheap, lunch at Storehouse is an enjoyable experience. The food is spot on and each well-cooked component is plated with flair. Here, the share plates are as pretty as the restaurant’s unique western suburb’s view. Perfect for a business meeting, or getting your glad-rags on for cocktails with friends, the venue’s buzzing vibe shows Storehouse is a very welcome addition to Subiaco’s dining scene.
Storehouse – At a Glance
9 Alvan St, Subiaco
Phone 6282 9000
■ Opening times
Lunch, Thurs to Sat, noon – 2.30pm
Dinner, Mon to Sat, 4pm until late
value for money 3
■ style –
■ wine – a small selection of WA
wines, with a few international
drops for good measure.
■ Chef – Marc Eskdale
■ Owners – TFE Hotels
■ feel – chic
■ wheelchair access – yes
■ cost –
Small Plates – $6 to $27
Large Plates – $34 to $120
Dessert – $16 to $18